Ireland, sir, for good or evil, is like no other place under heaven, and no man can touch its sod or breathe its air without becoming better or worse.
- George Bernard Shaw
I have always wanted to go to Ireland. When I was about eight, I read a book that was set in Ireland and that started it. The desire was fed when people asked me through the years whether I'm Irish because of my red hair. Irish music resonated with me because it was similar to fiddle music I heard every summer when I listened to my grandmother accompany old-time fiddlers in Weiser, Idaho. As a young adult, the tales of troubles captured my imagination. Whatever the reason, I always yearned to see Ireland for myself.
I've just gotten back from a trip to Ireland. It was everything I expected, and more.
I went to Ireland with my sister, Bonnie, and my friend, Melody. A chick trip. Chick trips have their own easy-going charm, and this one was no exception.
We meandered through picturesque villages, stopping often to take photos of sherbert-colored houses and pubs that had fallen off the pages of a tour book. The musical names of the towns charmed us - Dingle, Tralee, Ballybunnion, Listowel, Shannon, Carrickfergus, Lahinch, - and we wondered what they meant. For the record, Bally means town; Carrick means stone; Innis or Inch means "water meadow," Lis means earthen fort, Shannon means "old."
The landscape was exactly what I expected - Technicolor-green meadows. Spring-green hills that rolled on forever. Even mossy-green cliffs! The forty-two shades of green an Irishman mentioned to us are real, although I could have sworn there were at least 100 shades.
The seascapes were equally stunning. Irish Seas rage in a wild, untamed way, with choppy waves, rocky shoals, and rugged peninsulas that jut out in an audacious dare to the sea. We discovered the power of the sea when we rocked and rolled in a boat to the Aran Islands. I couldn't help thinking of the many fishermen that sea has claimed through the centuries.
It was wonderful to take in the vistas, but we managed to fit in some shopping too. We're girls, and shopping is a particular pleasure of a girl trip. No one ever minded popping into another store, even if we'd already hit 10 that day. We compared the cuteness factor of fuzzy sheep figurines and wooden black and white cows, set our sights on celtic-inspired earrings and claddagh rings. Inspired by chilly weather and daily rain, we lingered over bright, striped socks knit by hand from Donegal yarn, nubby scarves, and lush sweaters. Oh, the sweaters! Scratchy wools with thick-knit cables in traditional ivory; butter-soft yarns in aubergine, sea-blue, and terracotta, along with bright shades of pink and coral that seemed out of place in a land dominated by hues of shamrocks, fern, and moss.
Much as we loved the shopping, we loved the food even better. We lingered over meals, delighting in creamy chowders with seafood fresh from the sea and discovering new pleasures like banoffee pie. It's a delicious creation of caramelized sweetened condensed milk, bananas, and whipped cream on a cookie crust. One bite in a dusty little cafe in Rathkeale (meaning: "Caola's Ring Fort") and our new quest was to find it at other restaurants. It wasn't all good news though. Blood pudding - a sausage made from pig's blood - was served every morning. There's no way to sugar-coat it - to our American tastes, it was repulsive.
We did make it out of restaurants enough to hear a little music. We clapped our hands and danced to Irish music and walked through streets where the twang of fiddles and the thump of the bodhran filled our ears. Music was everywhere. One day while wandering the streets of the tiny town of Doolin, an Irish jig wafted through the village. I assumed it was a recording, then we noticed an elderly gentleman sitting in a yard playing an accordian. He played without music (as did all the musicians I saw); the music seemed as natural to him as the sea air he breathed.
Most of all, I found the people of Ireland to be warm and welcoming. I adored the B&B women and their brisk efficiency while offering that vile black pudding every morning. I laughed with people celebrating a marriage at the pub, while admiring their skill at Irish dancing. I welcomed the driving skills of a lovely man who shepherded us through the twists and curves of the Dingle Peninsula, pointing out ancient burial mounds, Ogham stones, early dome-shaped Christian churches, as well as pottery shops and sheep pathways. I appreciated the charm (and the soda bread) from a baker on the Aran Islands who'd moved from New Jersey and made this isolated spot her home. I liked the cute man in a sweater shop in Dingle who told me to hug him to see if he really was the same size of my husband. I loved hearing the Irish broque, and in some places, the Irish language. The lilt still fills my ears.
This trip fulfilled a childhood desire to Ireland. But, as travel usually does, it has merely whetted my appetite. Someday I hope to return to Ireland and decide if there really are 42 shades of green, or more like 100.
